Guatemala

Let's use this blog to keep up with each other! Excited to be in Guatemala, but also missing everyone! Post whatever!

Monday, May 28, 2007

Get a visual of Doña Fina

Ellen and I went to Doña Fina´s house this past Friday to make pizza. I´ve never made homemade pizza before, but after this experiment I am inspired! In the following pictures you´ll see Doña Fina, her husband Esau, Ellen, and Doña Fina´s youngest daughter (whose hair I was asked to braid). If you look closely you will see hot dogs on one of the pizzas - this is strictly a Guatemalan thing that I´m personally against.
For some reason she didn´t want to smile.

My House... soon to be


Here are some shots of my future house. I´ll be living in the upper two floors, and even though it has farmacia painted on the front, it´s an empty building. Keep in mind while viewing these that I will be painting and engaging in other activites to make it look homier.. also remember that I´m in Guatemala!
Upper Left: The living room. The first room on the first floor. Picture it a yellow or mandarin color.
Upper Right: The front part of the second floor. Will be the dinning room.



Left: My house from the outside. Those two balconies are mine!
I´m grateful for the view but those are the only windows in the house.
The red door next to the blue wall is where I will enter
Below Left: To be my room (think of it with celeste colored walls, maybe with a yellow border). This is the second room of my first floor.
Below Right: My second floor (buildings third floor). In the corner is or will be the shower, again a curtain should suffice. This half of the room will be the kitchen, and the front half the dinning room - they will be separated by some kind of curtain work, not exactly sure yet. Picture the kitchen yellow, and the dinning room a mandarin color.

The Market Continued... it gets a little nasty


Hooves, eyes and brains, heads, tongue, and intestines.. eeewwwww




So I haven´t been eating a lot of cow here! Vegetarians shouldn´t view these! Cow head, brains, eyes, tongue, intestines, hooves, and skin are all available in ample supply, and Guatemalans eat every last bit!!! I had to show these in order to give you the real deal.



There are also several vendors that sell the traditional Mayan dress: Guipil (blouse) and Corte (skirt)

As you can see the colors are very vibrant and beautiful. Unfortunately the traditional traje as it is called is also very expensive - 1,000 quetzales for the pair. I want to buy one, but I have to save some money! The Corte is a long piece of fabric made up of 8 baras that are wrapped around the waist several times (if I remember correctly a bara is a little less than a meter). Not everyone wears a full 8 bara corte especially becuase the price of a corte is sold by bara (around 50 quetzales per bara). The Guipiles are cheaper but prices vary according to how intricate the designs are. The teachers at one of my schools suggested that I buy a 4 bara corte... we´ll see.

Market Time!




Every Monday my town has a pretty large market, here are some snap shots!


Wednesday, May 02, 2007

Poco a Poco

My site is beginning to grow on me. I’ll have good days when people will recognize me and approach me in conversation, and then bad days when I don’t get hellos back. People definitely are not used to seeing Black people, ever. Most times they don’t think I’m American; I’m either from Livingston (a small city in eastern Guatemala where the only Blacks in the country live), Cuban because there are Cuban doctors who work at the Puesto de Salud (health center) in my town, Brazilian I don’t know why, and finally African. The good thing is that I don’t get treated badly because I’m Black, instead I’m more of a rarity. People are more curious towards me rather than hateful. Strangers will call me Morena (brown skinned), or I’ll just get the straight up Negrita both terms used with huge smiles on people’s faces. It seems to be just part of the culture down here. In the states it wouldn’t be okay if someone called out to me, ¨hey brown-skinned girl, ¨ or ¨hey little black girl,¨ but here it’s a term of endearment, just like they call fat people gordo or gorda right to their faces. Cultural differences are interesting aren’t they? I do have a funny story though. So I’ve actually made good friends with the owners of a Comedor in my town. My CTA introduced me to them my first day in site, Doña Fina and Don Esau husband and wife. They are very friendly and the food is delicious- needless to say I go there often. They live in another town not too far from my site where another volunteer also lives. So this past Sunday, I went there and had lunch at their house with the other volunteer. We had white rice and vegetables that were AMAZING, met the rest of the family, saw pictures of their trip to the Mayan ruins in Tikal, and pictures of their two children who are working Los Angeles (there are so many Guatemalan immigrants in Los Angeles that to them the United States is Los Angeles- no other city exists). So we were all chatting and Doña Fina randomly brings up Trenzas (braids), and asks if I could braid her 6 ear old daughter’s hair. I just about died! The topic changed and I thought I had gotten out of it, but when I said I was about to leave, she asked me again and whipped out hair ties, a comb, and baby oil. So I braided the girls hair, it was the least I could do after she gave me a delicious free meal. So even though they never see or interact with Black people they know that we can braid hair- I wonder if that’s what people in my town think when they see me: Ooo there goes the Morena, I wonder if she can do Trenzas? Next time I’m over Doña Fina´s house maybe I’ll give her a little cultural lesson, open up her mind a little.
Update on the house. My future landlord Don Domingo told me that the water heater would cost me 800 quetzales. I didn’t really think twice about this figure considering how important hot water will be to me for the next two years. The minute I mentioned the price to the other volunteers they immediately suggested that I only pay half for the water heater because he is still going to benefit from it after I leave, and to lower my monthly rent by 100 quetzales. We had arranged the money exchange for the upcoming Monday, so I called him on Sunday just to let him know that I was no longer able to pay 800 quetzales. Not gonna lie, I was a little nervous especially because I had so eagerly said yes to the original prices – I made it seem like money wasn’t an object when in fact it really is. Turns out he was fine with me only paying half for the water heater, and on Monday we discussed the rent situation and he was okay with 500 instead of 600 quetzales. My story was that my ¨agency¨ only gives me an inflexible amount of money for housing, and that the prices we discussed originally were too high, even though at the time I thought my agency could increase my allotment. Kind of vague I know, but it seems like the less details the better, and he’d rather have me pay something than nothing at all- the space would be empty otherwise. So now I can actually say that I have a place to live for the next two years, instead of I think I have a place.

During training, there are two very important days one week apart. One is site assignment day, where the volunteers receive their two year locations, and the other is counterpart day, where a person with whom you’ll be working and who is from your site comes to meet you, have a mini orientation, and then take you to your site for a first time visit. These counterparts are hit or miss. Some volunteers, like myself, are lucky and get hard working dedicated people who are excited about your work and eager to help you settle into your site, and others get stuck with counterparts who don’t make themselves available, and instead of formally introducing them to their sites, leave the volunteers slightly alone and with no other connections. All Healthy Schools volunteers receive a CTA (Coordinador Tecnica Administrativa) as their counterpart. The CTA monitors the directors (principles) and teachers of all schools located within a certain area, for example my CTA Juliana is in charge of 33 schools. The job is near impossible. With 33 schools she barely sees them all once a month, and if you really want to monitor something you need to show your face more than once a month. Juliana was a great counterpart, she took me to all my schools and explained my project correctly, she introduced me to a family to live with for the first three months in site (this is what a volunteer really needs from their counterpart otherwise they become this stranger with no legitimizing connection walking around asking people if they can live with them), and finally introduced me to the owner of a comedor (eatery) so that I have something to eat. She also arranged dates for me to meet the Padres and Madres de Familia (parents committees) of each of my three schools, and dates to meet the Alcalde (mayor) and COCODES (community groups) of my town. She put me off to a good start.
Meeting the Padres and Madres de Familia was an interesting experience. The first presentation was at Xecaxjoj, my biggest school. In Guatemala whenever there’s a presentation or some kind of unordinary event, a microphone and amplifier are requirements. Having heard about this from other volunteers I came mentally prepared to have my Spanish voice projected at an unnecessarily loud volume. The Director Irma red aloud the agenda, then my CTA spoke, and then I spoke. Funny thing was that as I was speaking, trying my best to describe my job and how happy I was to be in Guatemala in Spanish, it didn’t really seem like people were listening, but I just kept going. When I finished, my CTA repeated everything I said in the indigenous language K´íche, and immediately everyone moved to the front in order to hear more clearly what she was saying. I thought to myself, what was the purpose of my 10 minute spiel if no one could understand it? But I know for a fact that some of them speak Spanish, so why weren’t they listening to me? Not really understanding what was going on, I just let it go and watched on in admiration as my CTA spoke eloquent K´íche, and people were nodding their heads in agreement to what she was saying. What would I have done without her? Even better, after she was done some of the Padres actually had questions for me in Spanish that I was more than willing to answer-I had to show them something.
That night my Diarrhea hit hard: a pounding headache, uncontrollable chills, and toilet time every two hours throughout the night. Despite this, I still felt obligated to go to my second school Parracana to meet the padres the next day. After all, the parents came just to meet me and I couldn’t leave them hanging. In retrospect I still don’t know if this was the best idea, I had to leave several times to go and use the DIRTY outdoor latrine whose door didn’t close all the way. At first I didn’t sit on the latrine seat, but my stomach was hurting so bad and it was so awkward and uncomfortable squatting that I had to sit – gross I know, but I was desperate (I later found bites on my butt from were the flies or whatever had bit me)! Plus I was so out f it, I hope the parents didn’t think I was crazy. I still managed to give my spiel, no microphone this time, and my CTA spoke more than last time trying to cut me some slack. The following day I felt much better, and went to the third school where a microphone was present, and it seemed that people understood my Spanish. All in all the presentations went well, and I was glad to meet all the parents.
Since then the schools have been on strike, about two weeks now, so my visits unfortunately have been few. I was able to go to a school on Monday, and got to hang with the kids a little bit. Not gonna lie, the kids came to school kind of dirty, and the soccer boys after recess looked like they jumped in a pile of mud. They had dirt on their faces, their clothes where covered in dirt, and one kids hands were black! I told them that they were dirty kind of jokingly (¡Bastante sucios ustedes son!) and they agreed with me. The kid with the dirty hands proceeded to tell me exactly what happened during the soccer game that made him all dirty. I told them that it’s natural to get dirty when playing sports but that it’s not okay to stay dirty afterwards. The problem was that that day there was no water, so my point couldn’t be reinforced with corrective actions. Frankie asked me if he should go wash his face in the river, but I said that probably wasn’t a good idea because the river’s dirty too, although I think the dirty hands kid actually did do that because he came back and I could actually see his skin. The great thing is that the kids were very receptive to what I had to say, but it didn’t seem like they had any real cleaning habits nor did they recognize when they were absolutely filthy- it didn’t phase the boys at all that the amount of dirt on them had increased 10 fold after recess. The trick is going to be getting the family habits to change. The director of the school said that the children only bathe at home twice a week – that simply isn’t enough bathing! How to make cleanliness a priority? I’ll eventually need to have another meeting with the Madres and Padres de Familia!